January 15, 2015 § 1 Comment
It’s embarrassing to admit, but we missed the Christmas market in Brussels this year. But we did take a drive over the border to Aachen, Germany, to take in the festivities there. The weather wasn’t great and we considered not going at all, but then we thought maybe it won’t be as crowded! Apparently it takes more than an intermittent freezing rain to keep the crowds away from Christmas cheer in these parts. (That’s what the Glühwein is for.)
Aachen seems to be a pretty little town, but honestly it was hard to get any real perspective because all of the winding streets of the center were taken over by stalls selling food, mulled wine, decorations, gingerbread and other treats, and more. There were also a few small rides for the kids (though nothing like the beauties at the market in our hometown—score one for Brussels!).
We did peek into the Aachen Cathedral, the oldest cathedral in northern Europe. Part of it dates back to the late 700s and was begun by Charlemagne. It was one of the first sites in Europe to be made a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The inside is truly stunning, with incredibly ornate mosaics. We almost didn’t go in because it was very crowded, but Sebastian insisted that we do (twice, in fact). Sometimes it pays to listen to the kids.
December 12, 2014 § Leave a comment
I spend a fair amount of time at home and in and around our neighborhood. Luckily, I really do love our house, and I can take a walk or quick tram ride to do most of the things I need to do. It has also been a nice antidote to my previous life, in Brooklyn, when things often felt quite frazzled. It took two different subway trains to get Sebastian to school each morning, even before our commutes to work. Sometimes, while climbing the final set of stairs from the subway to reach the bustle of Rockefeller Center in Midtown Manhattan, I would allow myself to wonder if this was a normal way to live. (Not that I had any complaints about my workplace.) When you live in New York, the answer to this is yes. And no matter how much one may love that fine city—and I do—it can get to you after a while. So these days I don’t mind doing my freelance work at the dining table, and at 3:30 taking a walk to get the kids.
And yet I really should get out and explore my adopted town a bit more. Last week a friend was in town from London for a meeting, and we met for coffee. It’s no secret that when compared to nearby London and Paris, Brussels can be . . . underwhelming. Yes, it’s rough around the edges and arguably less dynamic, but it also has an underdog’s charm. Even as I poke fun at certain things, I find myself defending our little corner of the world. On my way to coffee last week I took my camera along, and while I didn’t purposely seek anything out or have a particular plan in mind, I found myself snapping away. I look forward to taking more walks in the months to come and trying to capture some of the beauty—and quirks—of Brussels.
October 20, 2014 § Leave a comment
Now that we are just days away from fall break, I find myself thinking back wistfully to the wonderful week we spent in France at the end of August. We rented a house with friends in the small town of Le Pouliguen, in the Loire-Atlantique department and just along the southern border of Brittany. It boasts (along with the town next door, the ritzier La Baule) some of the widest sandy beaches in France. But it also has la côte sauvage—the wild coast—consisting of rocky coves and tide pools and dramatic, windswept vistas. Add to this wonderful daily markets, charming towns, scenic bike rides (even if a little heart-stopping with the kids), and the most incredible chocolate cake on the planet, and we all wished we were staying for longer than a week (even if our clothes couldn’t expand enough to keep up). « Read the rest of this entry »
September 6, 2014 § 5 Comments
I’ve made a batch of apricot jam every summer except one (when I missed the short season during which apricots are available in New York) since I moved into my own apartment in Brooklyn, in 2001. Even last year, when we arrived in Brussels at the end of June and had a few other things to occupy our time (like unpack our entire household), I couldn’t resist the beautiful specimens I saw at the outdoor market. They were from Provence, and were perhaps the best I have ever eaten: sweet, juicy, and heavily perfumed. I bought 5 kilos. I quickly realized that, of all the decisions regarding the many mounds of stuff I either gave or threw away in preparation for our move, one of the few I regret was getting rid of my Ball canning jars. I thought it would be silly to bring two or three boxes of empty glass jars halfway across the world, so I listed them for free on Craigslist—and must have gotten close to fifty responses.
I figured I could find some canning jars here fairly easily, but with a very large box of ripe apricots and no luck finding any jars in our new neighborhood, I decided to store the jam in the freezer. I had never done done this before, and I was happily surprised with the results (though I shouldn’t have been surprised because my mom makes delicious strawberry and raspberry freezer jams). But I like the act of canning. It requires a blank slate of sorts. You must clear the counters and submit to an almost surgical mise-en-place. You have to slow down and focus on nothing else for that period of time in order to correctly execute each step of the process. And at the end, you have a stack of pretty jars to eat yourself (I mean share with your family) or give away. « Read the rest of this entry »
August 21, 2014 § 2 Comments
It’s less than two weeks before back-to-school around here, which means another summer is almost over. I also know this to be true because yesterday we were up at 4 a.m. following our return from California to Brussels, and after an ill-advised 3-hour nap in the afternoon, the boys were still up playing at 10:45 last night. You’d think this was the first time we’d done this! They were both great travelers, even though they only slept for two hours (total travel time: 23 hours). Our highly anticipated nearly five-week, bicoastal trek is now behind us.
It’s not easy being so far from family and friends (and believe me, California especially does feel far). There is not enough time with the former, and it’s impossible to find a way to see all of the latter. And yet we feel very lucky to be here: experiencing a different culture, having so many opportunities at our fingertips. While travel possibilities should not be understated, some of my greatest joy of living in this place at this time comes from watching our kids find their legs in a new country. On a practical level, I love that they are soaking up a new language. But they are also (hopefully) learning that they are adaptable, that there is a big world out there and they can make their way anywhere in it, that leaving what is familiar to you isn’t always easy but it is worthwhile—and, often, fun. (Of course our embrace of all things different still leaves room for cursing local quirks such as mind-boggling bureaucracy and stores’ odd opening hours.) « Read the rest of this entry »
June 11, 2014 § Leave a comment
On Wednesdays, school in Belgium lets out at noon. This might seem like a cushy deal (for the kids anyway), but in my experience Wednesday is the craziest day of the week. There’s the mad dash home for lunch, persuading the youngest and soon-to-be-grumpy member of the family to take a nap, and then waking him up prematurely (and grumpy) in order to get to whatever activity has been signed up for. So on a recent gray and rainy Wednesday it didn’t take too much complaining of some probably make-believe malady to convince me to skip the activity for one day—and make a chocolate cake instead.
Not just any chocolate cake, but one made with olive oil. It’s based on this recipe by Nigella Lawson, which I came across recently. I made the version that uses flour instead of ground almonds. I used a little bit less sugar and mixed all-purpose and whole wheat flours. Unsurprisingly for a chocolate cake from Nigella, it is delicious. It’s very moist, and while the olive oil taste isn’t at all overpowering, you can tell this cake is a little different. And because we all know how good cocoa is for us, I think this could even be considered almost healthy, right? (RIGHT?)
Here’s the recipe (in metric, but you can search online for cup equivalents):
Chocolate Olive Oil Cake
- 50 g good-quality cocoa powder (sifted)
- 125 ml boiling water
- 2 teaspoons vanilla extract
- 125 g flour (I used all-purpose and whole wheat)
- 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
- 1/2 teaspoon salt
- 150 ml olive oil
- 200 grams sugar
- 3 large eggs
- confectioner’s sugar for sprinkling
Preheat oven to 325°F/170°C. Grease 9-inch springform pan with olive oil.
Measure and sift the cocoa powder into a bowl, and whisk in the boiling water until you have a smooth, still runny (but only just) paste. Whisk in the vanilla extract and set aside to cool. In another smallish bowl, combine the flour with baking soda and salt.
Put the sugar, olive oil, and eggs in a large mixing bowl and beat vigorously for about 3 minutes, or until you have a pale primrose, aerated, thickened cream. Turn the speed down and pour in the cocoa mixture. Once it is all incorporated, fold in the flour mixture.
Pour the batter into the pan and bake for about 35 minutes (Nigella says 40–45 minutes, but mine was done sooner), or until the sides are set and the very center, on top, still looks slightly damp. Let cool for 10 minutes on a wire rack, and then ease the sides of the cake with a thin spatula and remove it from the pan.
June 2, 2014 § 2 Comments
There are so many places to visit a mere stone’s throw from Brussels, sometimes it’s hard to decide where to go next. So it took a deadline of sorts to get us to Lille, just over the border in France and a little over an hour by car. I’d been eying an interesting-looking museum, LaM (Lille Métropole, Musée de l’art moderne), which was having a soon-to-close exhibition on Meret Oppenheim, the Surrealist artist and muse to the likes of Man Ray and Marcel Duchamp. (Unfortunately, her famous teacup wasn’t on view.)
There are only a few galleries of permanent collection on view, so it’s really about seeing whatever temporary show is on. The museum buildings themselves make for an interesting approach—one part of the structure is made up of squat brick buildings, and the other white cubes with delicate cutouts—and you are also greeted by some great outdoor sculpture. We were caught in an absolute downpour on the walk from the car, which quickly gave way to sunshine alternating with cloud-filled skies (hence the fact that these photos look like they were taken on at least three different days).